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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.